The Break Room at FlexoExchange

Label Traxx is quite common and well suited in the Flexo world.

Are these screens internally made? Is there an issue with improper gearing alignment during the build?
Is there a similarity in artwork causing issues?
Too much blade pressure? Too hard of a blade?
Ink too viscous?

Those are things to observe.

You may try to replace the ink once it begins to shift. Then you can see if the color comes back into where you want it... That could identify heat. You also have a beta flex, so verifying if dots are getting swollen could help too. Some substrates, inks, cleaning chemicals can increase plate swell....

I am thinking your previous anilox was dirty, and probably not retrieving/releasing the ink, as with the new anilox. Especially if they are engraved the same. Everyone nailed it here... 1) Blade needs a rigid base, but the edge needs to be fine for clean metering. So you may want around a 10 to 12 m...

Since it is open pan, you should be able to watch the anilox have this pattern pop in and out on the anilox. (will look like lighter colored splotches that come and go on the anilox) As you increase speed, you may need to open your rubber rollers a little to allow more ink to make it to the anilox.....

It is expensive to get into, as well as difficult to get into the market. With the high cost of the tags, the customer must have some high dollar or sensitive product that RFID can assist with. (inventory, data logging, etc) Not to mention that most tag suppliers supply tags in 5M and 10M increments...

There is a piece of equipment required to properly insert the RFID tag within the label. This is usually done by de-laminating the face and applying the tag and re-lamming to the liner. You can also add an RFID tag to an unsupported stock, by using a hot melt glue. Research the vendor Tamarack , for...

I am fairly sure that the beveled edge should be away from the anilox. This creates a "beading" or "waterfall" action at the tip of the blade. This is due to the ink being sheered and then displaced from the blade itself. Same with an ice scraper for example. You have the beveled...

You need to get special UV inks for shrink. I found a company named "WaterInk Technologies", which use a UV ink that is for both Shrink and normal papers and films. The name of it is Pharmaflex ink. Their inks have a real good deep color, as well as working perfectly on all types of substr...

Depends on your reasoning. Of course printing on the material itself would be "better", only because you might not have to prime the material. When laying coldfoil down on another ink, you HAVE to use a primer over it. Be ready to have available stations for primers when you plan on laying...

I agree on 70+ tooth (1/8") being a minimum you should shoot for, especially with the large coverage plates that print to the gap. As for the black marker on the back of the plate edges, this works REALLY well with the most potent smelling permanent markers.

I think that looks like a fantastic machine. I use to operate a HP Indigo ws4500 , which was finished with a re-registering unit placed on a 10" 4 color Rotopress. The main issue with finishing on this press, was the press length, as well as how long it took to get the registration in. I though...

I agree with Robert. We ran some 16" High Shrink (PETG) and some 16" Low Shrink (PVC) with 10mm squares (cut in half with a dotted line). Then we draw (trace if you can) the design of the label. (rough drawing of the size) And then shrunk it on the bottle. Even without the drawing, with th...

I have seen quick failure (maybe not as fast as what you've mentioned) with the DFH plates. But the DFM plates seem to hold a good life for me. I usually worked with WaterInk / Xsys inks (UV). What kind of material are you running on? What is the failure? Is it a possibility you are not finishing th...

Those are some pretty fast speeds. :) I don't know what type of work you are printing, or the finishing method. But what he is talking about, is probably ink spitting. This is when the anilox is not able to stop all the ink from passing between the anilox and doctor blade. If you were sheeting the p...